I finally got around to wiring up the USB PowerControl NE. I cut a spare USB cable, and soldered 5vdc (red & black wires) to LIPOBATIN (+) and GND (-). So to enable the PowerControl, I use a USB wall wart to apply power across LIPOBATIN and GND. I verified that I'm getting 5vdc to LIPOBATIN with my multimeter.
For context: I'm using it to help reset my powered USB Hub, which won't reset upon removing power only, as it still gets power over the USB input. I tried a few different powered USB hubs, and can't find one that does not revert to self-powered mode when the external power is removed. So resetting it is a pain, as I have to crawl under my desk and remove the USB input, instead of just using a footswitch which disconnects the external power, as desired.
So I plan to use my footswitch to both kill the power to the hub's wall wart, and also the LIPOBATIN wall wart simultaneously, to completely shut off power to the hub.
However, I'm not getting a successful data & power connection to the hub when power is applied to LIPOBATIN.
I may have messed up when I zip tied the LIPOBATIN/GND USB cable to the PowerControl. I later noticed that a bit of the trimmed USB cable's shield was making contact with a couple of pins of one of the 5 pin ICs on the board (the attached pic is after I redid it with electrical tape to avoid the problem).
There was no smoke or anything and the Device Power led is still lighting up, but I'm not sure if I damaged the PowerControl or not.
By the way, the Device Power led is on all the time (whenever the USB input line to the PowerControl is connected). It doesn't matter if the 5vdc is applied or not. I'm not sure if this is expected or not.
I'm wondering if I'm using the PowerControl correctly or not? If it sounds correct, then perhaps I fried the board? Are there some recommended tests to diagnose it?
If I did toast the board, no worries. I'll just buy another one as they are inexpensive.
Last Edit: Jun 14, 2020 10:51:28 GMT -8 by meerkat
Doc, my bad. I had the USB input & output reversed
Upon correcting that, it's working perfectly! (note to self - need to RTFM more carefully next time)
It's a really nice product! No more crawling under my desk to reset my USB hub! Woot!
Tips for anyone out on the ol' interweb that wants to implement this USB hub reset application:
- The first USB wall wart I used had too much output filter capacitance, and it took ~5 seconds for the PowerControl NE to turn off whenever the AC supply was removed. I was starting to think about adding a bleeder resistor, but I first tried a smaller USB wall wart (Apple A1265 5W), and it now shuts off in ~1 second. Problem solved!
- If your USB hub wall wart happens to be 5vdc, you can make a Y cable to piggyback the LIPOBATIN enable/disable from that same wall wart, eliminating the extra one. I plan to do this when I have a chance, as my Tripp Lite U222-007-R hub does indeed run off of 5vdc. The USB hub itself should bleed down the voltage fast enough to avoid any excessive PowerControl off delay. So the Y cable for my Tripp Lite hub will have a female 3.5mm barrel input, and male 3.5mm barrel & USB-A female outputs (latter is because I used a USB-A male terminated cable to LIPOBATIN/GND).