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Post by panman on Apr 5, 2019 8:59:27 GMT -8
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Post by SDL on Apr 5, 2019 9:04:51 GMT -8
You would use the Control and Enable line in the Grove Connector to accomplish this. Here is the truth table:  BP |
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Post by panman on Apr 5, 2019 9:37:54 GMT -8
 to turn on the USB circuit, can I take the 5.0v from the USB in, and connect it to the LIPOBATIN pin? |
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Post by SDL on Apr 5, 2019 10:33:30 GMT -8
That will work just fine.
BP
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Post by SDL on Apr 5, 2019 10:34:05 GMT -8
BTW, it defaults to powering up ON BTW, with no inputs.
BP
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Post by panman on Apr 5, 2019 10:45:11 GMT -8
so to switch USB OFF for the very 1st time, >3.8v must first be applied to LIPOBATIN, then lowered <3.3v ?
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Post by SDL on Apr 5, 2019 12:20:31 GMT -8
Applying <3.3V will do it whether or not how you got there.
BP
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Post by panman on Apr 5, 2019 12:43:15 GMT -8
does no voltage applied, 0.0v, a valid value for <3.3v required to turn unit OFF?
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Post by SDL on Apr 6, 2019 10:58:01 GMT -8
If you mean connecting it to Ground, then yes it will work.
BP
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Post by meerkat on Mar 8, 2020 19:27:56 GMT -8
I assume that I can similarly switch the USB PowerControl on/off via external 5vdc:
+ to LIPOBATIN (JP1-1) *
- to GND (JP2-2 or J3-4)
* Need to short LIPOBATIN to GND one time to switch it off initially.
Is my understanding correct?
Thanks
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Post by SDL on Mar 10, 2020 15:50:28 GMT -8
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Post by meerkat on Mar 11, 2020 7:49:21 GMT -8
Great. Thanks Doc.
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Post by meerkat on Jun 13, 2020 12:24:41 GMT -8
I finally got around to wiring up the USB PowerControl NE. I cut a spare USB cable, and soldered 5vdc (red & black wires) to LIPOBATIN (+) and GND (-). So to enable the PowerControl, I use a USB wall wart to apply power across LIPOBATIN and GND. I verified that I'm getting 5vdc to LIPOBATIN with my multimeter. For context: I'm using it to help reset my powered USB Hub, which won't reset upon removing power only, as it still gets power over the USB input. I tried a few different powered USB hubs, and can't find one that does not revert to self-powered mode when the external power is removed. So resetting it is a pain, as I have to crawl under my desk and remove the USB input, instead of just using a footswitch which disconnects the external power, as desired. So I plan to use my footswitch to both kill the power to the hub's wall wart, and also the LIPOBATIN wall wart simultaneously, to completely shut off power to the hub. However, I'm not getting a successful data & power connection to the hub when power is applied to LIPOBATIN. I may have messed up when I zip tied the LIPOBATIN/GND USB cable to the PowerControl. I later noticed that a bit of the trimmed USB cable's shield was making contact with a couple of pins of one of the 5 pin ICs on the board (the attached pic is after I redid it with electrical tape to avoid the problem). There was no smoke or anything and the Device Power led is still lighting up, but I'm not sure if I damaged the PowerControl or not. By the way, the Device Power led is on all the time (whenever the USB input line to the PowerControl is connected). It doesn't matter if the 5vdc is applied or not. I'm not sure if this is expected or not. I'm wondering if I'm using the PowerControl correctly or not? If it sounds correct, then perhaps I fried the board? Are there some recommended tests to diagnose it? If I did toast the board, no worries. I'll just buy another one as they are inexpensive. Thank you
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Post by SDL on Jun 14, 2020 14:47:22 GMT -8
Hmm. You may have visited the "Box of Death" with your USB PowerControl NE. I really can't tell if you have done anything or not.
If you have LIPOBATIN connected to 5V, and nothing plugged into the Grove connector, then it will be on all the time. Disconnect that line to turn it off.
If you aren't getting power through the unit, then yes, it is toasted!
BP
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Post by meerkat on Jun 14, 2020 15:42:25 GMT -8
Doc, my bad. I had the USB input & output reversed  Upon correcting that, it's working perfectly! (note to self - need to RTFM more carefully next time) It's a really nice product! No more crawling under my desk to reset my USB hub! Woot! Tips for anyone out on the ol' interweb that wants to implement this USB hub reset application:
- The first USB wall wart I used had too much output filter capacitance, and it took ~5 seconds for the PowerControl NE to turn off whenever the AC supply was removed. I was starting to think about adding a bleeder resistor, but I first tried a smaller USB wall wart (Apple A1265 5W), and it now shuts off in ~1 second. Problem solved! - If your USB hub wall wart happens to be 5vdc, you can make a Y cable to piggyback the LIPOBATIN enable/disable from that same wall wart, eliminating the extra one. I plan to do this when I have a chance, as my Tripp Lite U222-007-R hub does indeed run off of 5vdc. The USB hub itself should bleed down the voltage fast enough to avoid any excessive PowerControl off delay. So the Y cable for my Tripp Lite hub will have a female 3.5mm barrel input, and male 3.5mm barrel & USB-A female outputs (latter is because I used a USB-A male terminated cable to LIPOBATIN/GND).
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